Right now, under Level Three lockdown, South Africa’s SA’s game lodges are eerily quiet. No bustling preparations for candlelit dinners in a dry riverbed. No sipping of whisky around a gently crackling fire as guests recall sightings. No energetic teams of guides, trackers, chefs and hosts who make the SA safari such an exceptional experience.
Just before the lockdown in March, I was one of a lucky few who visited Shumbalala Game Lodge in Limpopo’s Thornybush Nature Reserve. For three sublime days we were disconnected from the coming storm, and from the braying, politicking chaos that continues to upend our world.
On an afternoon drive, we watched as a tiny elephant gave a mock charge, all flapping ears and still-floppy trunk, before retreating to the shelter of its mother. We marvelled at the delicate beauty of a herd of impala, heard the first nightjar calling from the dusty road.
At the witching hour, when the light was spun gold, our tracker, Sam Mathebula, spotted a young female leopard. We followed her as she scent-marked the bushes — tail held high, cool as you like. It was an exquisite sight. A bit of perfection utterly dependent on mankind’s next moves. Three months on and life is anything but.
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The impact of empty lodges
"Our immediate concern was the increased threat of poaching throughout SA as lodges had to close," says Les Carlisle, group conservation manager at andBeyond. "One thing that tourism does is keep eyes on the ground. We’re holding the line, keeping a good presence in different areas. But where there are fewer patrols and vigilance, there’s vulnerability. There has been a marked increase in poaching [in the Northern Province], for instance, though predominantly for game meat."
Carlisle explains that in the bigger picture of conservation in SA, private wildlife reserves protect around 1-million hectares of land via photographic safaris. National and provincial parks protect about 9-million hectares, while 20-million hectares of wildlife habitat is protected by biltong-and professional hunting. "These combined areas generate billions of rand in tourism revenue that fund conservation," he says. "It is terrifying to consider that every one of those hectares is affected by the current losses. Without the return of tourism we risk losing many wildlife areas to other forms of land use — a loss that would have a major impact on our biodiversity."
Joanne Dickson, CEO of Thornybush, says: "We’re still firmly in the storm — plotting our journey forward." The group represents 12 luxury game lodges across the Thornybush Nature Reserve and Sabi Sands. "Lodges are expensive businesses to operate, and zero revenue makes that immensely challenging — especially when you’re trying to protect your staff. Each lodge also pays levies which fund crucial services like security, wildlife management and habitat management. While we’re firmly committed to levy contributions without revenues they cannot be sustained indefinitely."
In the short term, Thornybush turned to its own teams. "Like many other properties we came to an agreement with some of our guides and trackers who are staying on at the lodges during the temporary closure," says Dickson. "They’ve been invaluable in enhancing the antipoaching units and assisting where needed in managing the reserve."
The reality of lost tourism jobs
For countless staff, though, the pandemic has meant staying home — supported by reduced pay and/or assistance from the Unemployment Insurance Fund. Many more were unemployed before the crisis began. "With increasing job losses in our surrounding communities, there is now an immediate humanitarian need," says Inge Kotze, general manager of conservation at Singita.
In villages surrounding Sabi Sands and Kruger National Park, the Singita Lowveld Trust has partnered with 17 early childhood development centres. "With schools temporarily closed, about 2,000 preschoolers are now without a regular daily meal that the centres provide," says Kotze. "We’re working closely with other local NGOs to provide emergency relief food parcels for the most vulnerable families."
Similar steps were taken throughout the lowveld. Candice Grover, community projects manager for Thornybush, says: "Though we had existing plans for sustainable empowerment projects, we soon realised these were a luxury. Overnight it came down to basic survival. Though food supplies are not sustainable long term, this is what we need to do right now."
Grover’s team initiated the Thornybush family food parcel project. It supports 349 families, including Thornybush’s own staff on layoff as well as 70 highly vulnerable families in the immediate community. "We were so wary of donor fatigue, but through our various networks — from friends and family to past guests and the travel trade, we’ve raised R500,000. Given that our country was in economic crisis before the pandemic, this generosity is just remarkable."
Grover adds that delivering food parcels in person proved costly and time-consuming. It also brought its own safety issues. "As an alternative we now text electronic vouchers to each family, allowing for shopping at local supermarkets. This technology provided a simple, more secure solution."
Postpone, don’t cancel
Thirteen-thousand kilometres away, New York-based travel company Roar Africa found its bespoke, high-end safari destinations shut down overnight. "In early March, as Covid-19 hit, we had 295 trips booked, a significant number of which were to SA," says CEO Deborah Calmeyer. "We had to move rapidly, to lean into our stakeholders in SA and keep the dream going."
Calmeyer adds that 90% of Roar Africa’s bookings were successfully transferred to 2021. "First, we needed to reassure our customers that we’re here for the long haul. Second, our lodge partners in SA are very nimble and creative — we know they’re doing everything possible with a view to opening up; they truly understand what’s at stake. Ultimately we all depend on the continued survival of Africa’s wildlife."
High net worth travellers are key
Singita, which has 15 lodges and camps across Tanzania, Rwanda, Zimbabwe and SA, is one of Roar Africa’s regular destinations. "The Covid-19 pandemic is going to put conservation under enormous pressure," says Singita’s chief marketing officer, Lindy Rousseau. "If tourism collapses, the ripple effect could threaten to wipe out decades of proactive conservation work on the continent. Attracting high net worth individuals is absolutely key in bringing our conservation vision to life."
Going local
While all revenue is crucial, the traditional model where at least 80% of bookings represent international guests is being severely tested. Dickson predicts that the industry will lean heavily on local tourism as soon as domestic travel is allowed. "South Africans are definitely part of our rebuilding strategy. Not just in terms of discounted weekend breaks, but as part of extended packages that include other beautiful parts of the country. Medium term, we’re hoping for a reasonable return of international guests around mid-2021."
In the interim, she cautions that the revival of demand will look very different to the norm. "As the lockdowns here and abroad roll out, lodges around the country will have to face what can be reopened, and what to mothball or exit, in order to be viable."
Moving forward with hope
"Until occupancies revive and revenues improve, there will be fallout," warns andBeyond’s Carlisle. "Both human and in the natural world." Fortunately, he believes we will see more co-operation emerging from the pandemic. "If the whole industry works together to keep reserves pristine, well stocked and safe, and if the motivation is genuinely to empower our communities, we will succeed."
Dickson adds: "The very DNA of SA safaris is about space and a longed-for natural connection. We’re hoping that our local market will have another look at SA, investing in an unforgettable bush getaway, rather than perhaps venturing overseas. We believe wholeheartedly in our offering, both as a country and a continent."
How to help
In addition to those mentioned above, these nonprofits are doing remarkable work for conservation and communities, both here and across our borders:
Africa Foundation: andBeyond’s community development partner for 27 years. Current SA projects include assisting with emergency water connections and supplying Hippo water rollers to communities in Mpumalanga and KwaZulu-Natal.
Project Ranger: The Great Plains Foundation’s emergency fund to support rangers and antipoaching teams through training and salaries.
greatplainsfoundation.com/ranger/
Rhinos Without Borders: A successful collaboration which has relocated rhinos from high-risk SA areas to protected reserves in Botswana. Funds go towards their continued monitoring and protection.
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